Ras el Hanout is an intoxicating blend of spices originating in Morocco and used throughout North Africa. It takes minutes to make and serves four grown ups as a starter. The family went crazy for this dish, with its sweet spiced charms and its crispy and creamy texture. So, allow me to introduce to you my very easy and incredibly moreish recipe for Crispy Cauliflower with Ras el Hanout, Tahini and Date Syrup. And one of my best discoveries was the way they cook cauliflower: charred whole on a grill or fried until golden, it transcends the transgressing British way of boiling the life out of the cauliflower until you are left with nothing more than a pappy and soggy yellowing corpse. We ate spiced chicken livers with secular Israelis in Tel Aviv, the headiest zhough (a delicious Yemenite fiery, green chili paste) from a humble stall in a shuk, hamishe chicken soup with Orthodox Jews in Jerusalem, baklava that tasted like liquid gold, and the freshest seafood with Arabs in Jaffa. Influenced by the many peoples who have passed through, we feasted upon the fruits of their histories and of their land. On my recent trip to Israel with The Husband and kids, I was reminded that this crazy, beautiful country has such a wonderful food culture. Instead I battered some cauliflower, all the while reminding myself that the rain is good for the garden. However, I will not succumb and allow the weather to batter my optimism for the springtide. One minute I was making daisy chains in The Mother-in-Law’s garden with two nymphy children running naked circles around me the next I’m impersonating a drowned rat towing two smaller drowned rats through gale-force winds and bucketing rain. Last week’s warm weekend, with its ingratiating mantra and promise of sunnier climes, tricked me into thinking spring had arrived.
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